"Like most Japanese, Yamada is enamoured of all things Italian, an seems to have mastered the art of Italian cooking, sprinkling his menu with dishes from the diary-rich north all the way to Calabria in the South. [...] The food runs the gamut. Cicchetti, those must-have little snacks, come first-bruschetta of roasted peppers and burrata or a saucer of featherlight fried squid and whitebait. Lovely. Carpaccio is expertly done, not sliced wafer-thin and all the better for it: beef with hazelnuts and Parmesan, sworfish with capers and olives."
